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Mulac x Ditonellapiaga: Interview with Makeup Artist Daniele Peluso

Mulac x Ditonellapiaga: intervista al makeup artist Daniele Peluso

Reading time: 5 minutes

In Sanremo, Ditonellapiaga rocked the stage with an iconic beauty look: graphic eyeliner and red lips with retro charm. Behind this makeup, created entirely with Mulac products, is the hand of Daniele Peluso, the makeup artist who accompanied her throughout all five nights of the Festival.

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Ditonellapiaga's look at Sanremo was immediately recognisable thanks to her bold black eyeliner and matte red lips, which transported everyone back to the 1950s. How did the idea of bringing back this vintage and iconic makeup come about?

It all started in 2022, the year Margherita (Ditonellapiaga's real name) participated in the Sanremo Festival with the song "Chimica", alongside Donatella Rettore. Her stylist advised her to use eyeliner and red lipstick, probably inspired by Margherita's facial morphology, which is well suited to retro-style make-up looks. In reality, this image perfectly matches Margherita's taste, as she has always been passionate about 50s and 60s aesthetics, often associated with the memory of legendary divas.
But in 2021, the eyeliner was much thinner; it has thickened and lengthened over the years, proportionally to her growing awareness of her image.

For five consecutive evenings, the makeup remained true to her style, but with some variations. How did you play with eyeshadows, face base, and other elements to keep the look consistent yet original in its details?

Eyeliner and red lipstick are the key, unshakeable, identifying, iconic elements. Everything else could be questioned, and I adapted it by interpreting it in a contemporary key, in harmony with the evening's look.
White glitter and glitter with blue reflections, alternated with matte eyeshadows, for the eyelids. Liquid highlighters applied to all the high points of the face, to give freshness to the base, and silkening powders in the central area of the face, to smooth the texture and ensure the foundation's hold. For the blushes, I alternated cool pinks with warmer ones, depending on her outfits and in accordance with the lipstick's undertone.

"Eyeliner and red lipstick were the key elements, unshakeable, identifying, iconic. Everything else could be debated..."

Ditonellapiaga’s eyeliner was one of the most talked-about elements. What product and technique did you use to achieve such a graphic and intense line?

"Che fastidio!" is a fun but poignant, uncomfortable, divisive song. Similarly, I wanted all of this to be expressed through her eyeliner, well-defined edges, and sharp flick.
The first step starts with the Shiva black eye pencil, to draw the upper waterline well, with the aim of filling all the empty spaces between the lashes and giving greater definition to the gaze. Then, with the same pencil, I draw the eyeliner design, using tiny brushes soaked in makeup remover to perfect the line. Finally, I go over the entire line with the ONliner black pen eyeliner, intense black color and excellent hold.

Along with the eyeliner, the matte red lips completed the look with a strong retro feel. How did you work on lip definition and the combination of lip pencil and tint to achieve such an intense red on Ditonellapiaga's face?

Matte-finish red lips have remained timeless since I first proposed them to Margherita, because they provide a velvety finish, full color, and extremely long wear. I did several trials and attempts with lip pencils and liquid lipsticks until I identified two specific shades of red I had in mind: fire red and ruby red.

I outline the lips with a red pencil, color them completely with the same pencil, and finally apply liquid lipstick over it, obtained by mixing two different reds. The mix of liquid lipsticks remained unchanged throughout the various evenings: Velvet Ink No Pain No Gain + Velvet Ink Old School. What changed was the base pencil: I alternated between Lip Master 10 Candy Apple and Lip Master 19 Red Liquorice.

Sanremo means fast-paced rhythms, very bright lights and live performances. What are the products or little "backstage secrets" that help keep makeup flawless for hours on these occasions?

This topic, it must be said, really hits a nerve.
My hair stylist colleague and I didn't have a pass to enter the Ariston, and the artists were called two hours before the performance. Imagine my anxiety; anything could happen in those two hours, a real torture for me. But I played it safe by obviously using all long-lasting products and testing them in the morning, when Margherita had to be made up for the various interviews during the day.

Starting with the right skincare is essential because if the skin is well-treated, the makeup certainly lasts longer. The Cherry Charge Eye Awake eye contour helped me a lot to keep the area elastic and prepare it perfectly for concealer, avoiding dryness and creasing. My ally for the base was the First Take Foundcealer mixed with moisturizer, warmed and applied with a brush, and then reapplied with fingertips on areas that needed more coverage, truly unifying and very long-lasting. Another secret, in terms of duration, was to set the liquid blushes with powder blushes, sealing everything with a light mist of Setter Ceo Setting and Hydrating Spray.

"The stylist advised her to use eyeliner and red lipstick, probably inspired by Margherita's facial features, which are well suited to retro-style makeup looks."

Before becoming a makeup artist, you studied architecture: a very unusual path in the beauty world. What led you to this change, and is there anything from architecture that influences your approach to makeup today?

Makeup has always been a passion of mine, ever since I was a child, when I was enchanted watching my mother apply her makeup; the magic of transformation excited me. I started working as a makeup artist's assistant while studying architecture at 20, and I haven't stopped since, nurturing both passions. Undoubtedly, studying architecture shaped me differently in relation to beauty, providing me with the tools to interpret it with an analytical approach.
Visual culture, proportions, balance, the analysis of volumes, and the use of chiaroscuro are all elements I carry in my toolkit when translating my thoughts into makeup looks.

Do you believe makeup can be a way to communicate something about oneself, one's story, or one's stage of life, without the need for words?

Make-up is absolutely a means of communication, revealing a lot not only about the wearer but also about the make-up artist and the historical period. I study the character extensively, delve into their personality, and analyze their aesthetic evolution. While applying make-up, I bring my world, my training, and my fashion background, but always with the sole aim of creating something that makes you feel perfectly comfortable in your own skin, something that speaks for you, without you having to say a word.

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