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Natural lip makeup: how to do it and how to choose the perfect nude shade

Trucco labbra naturale: come si fa e come scegliere la tonalità nude perfetta

Reading time: 8 minutes

Have you ever bought a beautiful nude lipstick, opened it in front of the mirror with the best intentions, only to discover it wasn't the right shade for you? You're in good company: natural lip makeup is one of the most sought-after looks in makeup, even though it can sometimes be a bit tricky to figure out how to achieve it best.

To achieve this type of makeup, three things work together, and we'll look at them one by one: the right nude lip shade for your undertone, a light technique built with thin layers, and products designed to nourish your lips while coloring them.

It's not about covering up, but about enhancing what you already have.

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What is the natural lip makeup everyone is talking about

There's a trend you've undoubtedly seen on social media that conveys the idea better than any technical definition: "Your lips, but better".

Lip makeup in your natural color starts from an underestimated but almost obvious premise, if you think about it, which is that the color you already have is the right starting point. It doesn't replace it; it makes it more uniform, more saturated, more defined.

In practice, this means the color is definitely visible, but it doesn't look applied. It doesn't usually involve a sharp contrast between the lip and the skin, nor an overly defined border.

The most common misunderstanding of this theory, the one that leads most people to abandon nude after a few attempts, is that natural means invisible. A natural-effect lip makeup created with a little attention actually has a significant impact: it freshens the complexion, restores volume if needed, or if you want it to, and lasts all day without needing touch-ups. And the difference between a nude that works and one that doesn't? It's all about the shade you choose and how you care for your lips before applying makeup.

Which brings us straight to the most important part of all.

Nude lips? Here's how to choose the perfect shade for your undertone

Let's start by dispelling any doubts: universal nude does not exist. The word itself says it all, after all, given that nude means naked, i.e., your color, and your color is not that of anyone else's. The exact same lipstick can brighten one face and dull another.

There are two clever tricks that makeup artists have always used to figure out the right shade for you.

The first is the nipple trick: the natural shade of your nipple (and gums) is, from a chromatic point of view, the most honest version of your color, because the sun doesn't touch it, tanning doesn't change it, and no product alters it.

Starting from there means starting from the most authentic base you have available for a natural nude lip effect.

The second is the pinch trick, even faster. Give your fingertip a little pinch and observe the shade it takes on when the blood flows back. That particular pink, with its precise temperature, is a surprisingly reliable compass when you're faced with twenty seemingly identical shades.

Don't forget your undertone! How to choose the right nude lipstick or lip tint based on warm, cool, or neutral undertones.

The two tricks give you direction, the undertone brings it into focus. And that's where understanding how to choose nude lipstick or lip tint stops being a shot in the dark.

If you have a warm undertone, meaning skin that tends towards golden and veins on the inside of your wrist that appear green, your territory is peach nudes, caramels, golden beiges, and softer terracottas: shades that harmonize with the warmth of your skin instead of contrasting it.

If your undertone is cool, with that rosy component in your complexion and veins that tend towards blue, rosy nudes, mauves, mauve, and rosy beiges work much better. These are all colors that embrace the freshness of your skin and return it amplified.

And if you are neutral, meaning neither of the two readings clearly prevails, you are in the freest position of all: mid-tones, neither too pink nor too orange, will almost always suit you, and you have enormous room to experiment outside your comfort zone.

However, there's another path, and it's the one that opens up the most interesting possibilities: stop looking for the single perfect product and instead play with combinations

Two products for a custom nude lip look: the lip combo that's right for you

Anyone who works with makeup has always known: making up nude lips so that the result looks truly natural is, first and foremost, a match between several products, because the most beautiful nude is almost never a single product, but a combination.

At the base are products like the long-lasting Lip Master lip pencil, with a smooth texture, no-transfer effect, water-resistant, and up to ten hours of wear. Its job is twofold: it redefines the contour without ever marking it, and if desired, it evens out the base of the lip, so that the color finds a homogeneous surface on which to spread. Among the 18 shades, for a nude lip makeup, you can choose from 01 In My Birthday Suit, 02 Nudelicious, 04 Sugar Almond, 07 Vanilla Cream, or 21 Crème Noisette.

Next comes the actual color, and it's time to try the new Lip Mistress, the lip crayons designed to bring color, volume, and long-lasting wear, with a matte and full finish. Lip Mistress is a hybrid that combines the precision of a pencil and the performance of a long-lasting, no-transfer lipstick, in a practical jumbo format.

The plumping formula and smooth matte texture instantly make lips more defined, full, and smooth, with a matte effect that is never dry. Seven shades ranging from the lightest nudes, such as 22 Eat Me! a rosy beige, or 23 Cappuccino XXX caramel, to the deeper ones like 29 Pepper Choco.

Lip Mistress were created to accompany Lip Master, Mulac's iconic lip pencils. With this product duo, mix and match becomes pure fun: you can define the outline with a Lip Master shade and fill with a Lip Mistress, layer two colors to achieve a blend that doesn't exist in any other product in the world, or increase and decrease the intensity depending on whether you're going to the office or out to dinner. If you want to expand your options, lip tints and nude lipsticks also lend themselves to being part of the combo.

How to do natural-looking lip makeup: a mini step-by-step guide

Five steps, none of which will take more than a minute: here's how to apply natural-looking lip makeup without making your life complicated.

Makeup for fuller lips (natural plumping effect)

The topic of volume deserves a chapter of its own. The natural tricks for fuller lips work precisely to the extent that they remain imperceptible: with overlining you can draw the contour of the lips by going no more than a couple of millimeters beyond the natural line, and you can choose a slightly lighter shade to apply to the center of the lip, blending it outwards.

To finish, there's the highlight, which is the detail that does most of the work: a thin layer of clear gloss in the center of the lower lip, like Lip Toy 05 Clear Candy, creates a depth that the eye automatically translates into volume.

The principle is identical to that governing well-applied blush, where the exact spot where you apply the color matters much more than the amount of color you use. The result is full lips with natural makeup that no one will be able to detect.

What's the difference between Lip Master, Lip Mistress, Lip Melt, and Lip Toy?

Four similar names, four completely different functions. If you've ever gotten lost in choosing, here's your guide.

The best nude is the one that resembles you

Ultimately, natural lip makeup moves away from technique and closer to a way of looking at oneself: it starts with the color you already have, instead of looking for one that represents you instead. You find the shade that dialogues with your undertone, prepare the base, build in thin layers, and what remains is a nude that looks like yours for the simple fact that, deep down, it is.

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